Khao Kheow, Chon Buri, Thailand
The hills above Chon Buri are mostly forested but little-visited, with few convenient access points. At Khao Kheow there are two reasonable alternatives: either through the “open zoo” or via a trail that wraps around the zoo’s southern perimeter. This is the largest intact forest habitat so close to Bangkok, supporting populations of many species, including the spectacular Great Hornbill.
Orientation
Directions
Khao Kheow is about an hour’s drive (85 km) southeast of Bangkok, 10 km south of Chon Buri.
To reach Khao Kheow Open Zoo, take Route 7 past Chon Buri and exit onto Route 4036, then proceed approximately 6 km to reach the zoo entrance.
Alternatively, to explore Khao Kheow on foot, there is a trail that begins south of the zoo. To reach the trailhead, exit onto Route 4036, as above. After 1.8 km, instead of turning left to remain on Route 4036, continue straight and proceed approximately 3 km to the Pong Dindam reservoir. As you arrive at the reservoir, turn left onto the dirt road, go approximately 1 km, and park at the T-junction.
Birdfinding
Many forest birds can be found on the grounds of Khao Kheow Open Zoo, which allows for convenient access by car between 8:00 and 18:00, but the trail around the zoo’s southern and eastern sides has greater potential for those who are prepared to hike.
The full extent of the trail is approximately 8 km. The first 2 km or so climbs fairly steeply through deciduous forest. Then for about 1 km the trail passes through mostly open grassy habitat until it reaches the fenceline of the zoo. The trail then joins the zoo’s road system and continues as a little-used road up into the hills of Khao Kheow. The remaining 5 km or so—all on the road above the zoo—passes through evergreen forest, ultimately arriving at a retreat. Each of these sections can be productive.
A small population of Great Hornbills persists in the evergreen forest of Khao Kheow; they are sometimes seen within the grounds of the open zoo. © Natthaphat Chotjuckdikul
Note that the trail forks in several places in the open grassy area, and it is easy to become sidetracked on paths that eventually peter out. To stay on the main trail, look for the large partially excavated area (visible on the map). Keep to the left side of it, climb the small hill and continue north until reaching the zoo’s fenceline. Then follow the fenceline to the right.
If you happen to hear a tiger roaring while you walk through this area, you can probably relax as this will likely be one of the zoo’s tigers, whose enclosure is just inside the fenceline.
Flocks of White-crested Laughingthrush are a lively presence in the deciduous forest zone of Khao Kheow. © J.J. Harrison
Common species in the deciduous forest zone include: Red Junglefowl, Greater Coucal, Green-billed Malkoha, Lineated Barbet, Common Flameback, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Burmese Shrike, Racket-tailed Treepie, six bulbuls (Black-crested, Black-headed, Sooty-headed, Stripe-throated, Yellow-vented, and Streak-eared), Pin-striped Tit-Babbler, Puff-throated Babbler, White-crested Laughingthrush, White-rumped Shama, and Ruby-cheeked Sunbird.
The grassy area has fewer birds, but Barred Buttonquail is common, and an open view of the sky is conducive to spotting raptors, including: Oriental Honey-Buzzard, Crested Serpent-Eagle, Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Shikra, and Crested Goshawk.
Barred Buttonquail is commonly flushed while walking through the grassy stretch of the trail up Khao Kheow. © Ramesh Desai
The evergreen forest has the highest diversity, including most of the deciduous forest birds as well as: Besra, Asian Emerald Dove, Banded Bay Cuckoo, Great and Oriental Pied Hornbills, Dollarbird, Blue-eared and Green-eared Barbets, Vernal Hanging-Parrot, Rosy, Ashy, and Brown-rumped Minivets, White-bellied Erponris, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Great Iora, Ochraceous and Gray-eyed Bulbuls, several species of leaf-warblers, Thick-billed and Yellow-vented Flowerpeckers, Little Spiderhunter, Crimson Sunbird, Asian Fairy-Bluebird, and Blue-winged and Golden-fronted Leafbirds.
Asian Emerald Dove is fairly common in the leaf litter of the evergreen forest of Khao Kheow. © Tim Avery
Notes
When to Visit
The Khao Kheow Open Zoo is open daily from 8:00 to 18:00. The trail is open at all times, and is best begun early in the morning.
Hazards & Hassles
The trail is used mainly for mountain biking, although this use appears to be fairly infrequent.