Cambalache State Forest, Puerto Rico
A short side-trip off of Puerto Rico’s north coastal freeway less than an hour’s drive from San Juan, Cambalache State Forest offers convenient access to an intact patch of native woodland that supports most of the island’s widespread endemic birds. It is an especially reliable site for Puerto Rican Lizard-Cuckoo, which is common and widespread but elusive and can be hard for visiting birdwatchers to find elsewhere.
Orientation
Directions
A 45-minute drive (75 km) west of San Juan, or 15 minutes (15 km) east of Arecibo.
Approaching from either direction on the toll expressway PR-22, exit onto PR-683, northbound. PR-683 ends at a T-junction with PR-682. Turn right onto PR-682, go 1.7 km, then turn right onto the entrance road to Bosque Estatal de Cambalache. (Note that the town of Cambalache is several miles west of the state forest.)
Birdfinding
Birdwatchers who visit Cambalache typically do so as a brief detour on an excursion, and rarely explore much beyond the picnic pavilions and recreational zone near the entrance. Puerto Rican Lizard-Cuckoo can often be found in this area by remaining attentive during a lunch break.
For those with more time to dedicate to Cambalache, it has a fairly extensive trail network to explore, with a 3.5-km perimeter loop and several trails that criss-cross the interior. South of the picnic area, the property is almost entirely forested. Its karstic terrain features many tall limestone pillars and caves.
Other Species. Cambalache has populations of most of Puerto Rico’s widespread woodland birds, including: Scaly-naped Pigeon, Key West Quail-Dove, Mangrove Cuckoo, Puerto Rican Tody, Puerto Rican Woodpecker, Puerto Rican Flycatcher, Puerto Rican Vireo, Black-whiskered Vireo, Eastern Red-legged Thrush, Puerto Rican Oriole, Adelaide’s Warbler, Puerto Rican Spindalis, and Puerto Rican Bullfinch.
Hours. The forest is open daily from 9:00 to 5:00, but closed on Mondays.
Cambalache State Forest.
Other Sites Nearby
Río Abajo State Forest. Most birdwatchers who visit Cambalache stop there en route to searching for the Puerto Rican Parrot and other forest birds at Río Abajo, a 45-minute drive away, along PR-10 south of Arecibo.
Barceloneta and Caño Tiburones. Cambalache is adjacent to a large swath of productive wetland and grassland habitat, much of it within the Caño Tiburones Natural Reserve. The eastern end of this extensive area is partly accessible via a network of farm roads just north of the state forest and a few miles east on the edge of Barceloneta.
Hacienda La Esperanza. Northeast of Barceloneta, the historic sugar plantation Hacienda La Esperanza is managed as a nature reserve. The property protects an array of habitats, including woodlands, scrub, fields, marshes, mangroves, estuary, and undeveloped seashore, all in a compact area, making it one of the best sites in Puerto Rico for overall bird diversity.
Camuy. 30 minutes’ drive (30 km) west of Cambalache, the back road between Camuy and Quebradillas, PR-485, passes through agricultural land with ponds, pastures, seasonally flooded fields, and beaches that can be productive for shorebirds, terns, ducks, and other waterbirds.
Quebradillas. On the west side of Quebradillas, about 45 minutes’ drive (45 km) from Cambalache along the main highway, PR-2, there is a pull-off at Parque el Merendero de Guajataca on high bluffs overlooking the ocean. Several pairs of Catesby’s Tropicbird nest on the cliffside below and can often be seen flying around the area from January to May or June.
Services
Accommodations
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Food
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Notes
Hazards & Hassles
Cambalache is a popular site for mountain-biking, which can be disruptive, mainly on weekends and especially on race days. Trails are designated for either biking or hiking.